51...Cycling Home. Etretat to Fecamp

Punctures 2 and 3 of 6

A night in Le Havre at a slightly seedy hotel and a morning of punctures. It was drizzly and as we cycled through a forest at the top of Le Havre, the bike tyres picked up little bits of gravelly flint which stuck to the tyres and worked their way in. The forest was full of cyclists and joggers, some of which managed to do a lap as we did our repairs. We then got lost. The idea had been to cycle out of the top of the forest and on to Fontaine la Mallet, but because of the one way cycling system around the forest, and the repair stops, we lost our sense of direction and went round and round. Finally we found our way out (with a little help from a jogger who we had to follow to ask directions..he couldn't stop) and we finally made it to Fontaine for a very welcome cup of tea and probably the best croissant ever. On then to coffee and another puncture on the way, but then the sky slowly cleared and the sun appeared as we came into Etretat.

These cliffs were being climbed by all and we enjoyed watching their efforts as we sat and ate our lunch on the beach.

Wooden fronted house in Etretat

There are some wonderful buildings around France and still many, many wooden ones. This one had little carved people and animals all over it, all of them different.

La Dame au Chapeau a Benouville

Cycling up out of Etretat we came across this quirky Salon de The and it was one of the best stops that we had had. Service was completely at her own pace, and the tea came in one of a collection of old teapots and lustre ware cups and saucers...more english than an english tea room. We decided to have the local cider, which is nothing like cider in Britain, it is lower in alcohol and more fruity, perfect at lunch or tea time. Unfortunetly we were told that because of the licencing laws we had to have cake with our drinks.....Oh dear, 2 Friands, a Caramel slice and a Pain d'Epice please! Everything was presented wonderfully, little flamingo sticks in the Caramal slice, slices of orange on the Pain d'Epice and a knife with an orange segment for a handle..all delicious! This is the first time I have been tempted back into catering for many a year. She has a great website to check out too at   www.ladameauchapeau.com   I think I could live here.

Silouhette of the Benedictine Monestry

We followed a cycle trail across country into Fecamp which was perfect until the end when it cruelly took us over the cliffs and down into the town. Again, because of the rubbish signs we ended up on the beach at one point. Who do I write to in France about their signs?...I think someone is having a laugh.
We found a restaurant which had exactly the menu we were looking for...lots of seafood, and some very comfy seats for our weary backsides and smiley, easy service.
Next morning we had the devil in our tails and made our mid morning stop for coffee by 9.30, this meant we had time for a leisurly ride back the rest of the day.

Water Mill at Cany Barville

Hamish discovered this old abandoned mill by the lake at Cany Barville, such a shame it's not still used as it is such a lovely building.

Hamish proudly showing shredded tyre

 Finally we parted company at Guerres, Hamish and Mark for the ferry, and H and I for home. Hamish who had been on dire warning not to turn up with a rubbish bike, cycled on this shredded tyre the whole journey and didn't get a puncture until just before getting back on the ferry. Ah Hamish....you gotta love him!

Home grown bounty

Arriving back home was good owing to cycling shorts which were rubbing badly enough to give me a pain in the proverbial, but a bit sad too as there is nothing like setting off each morning and not knowing what you are going to come across as the day goes on. We had the BEST time and are already planning a ride up the Seine to Paris next year, and then a month long ride around France.
Also, waiting for us was a tree full of ripe nectarines, sweet corn, blueberries and more runner beans than you can shake a stick at. Off to the hammock for a couple of days now.